Horseback Adventure Trip, Turns City Slicker into “City Slicker”
Outdoor Horse Riding Vacation with Warner Guiding and Outfitting
By Cheyenne Steffen

A grizzly bear stood just 30 feet from me.  He paused momentarily from his romp in the berry bushes to gaze curiously at me, no doubt wondering just how much of an imposition I would pose to his afternoon. I even rated a curious, fully upright look from it that lasted only seconds before the great bear decided I was far less interesting to him than his berries. He went back to eating and I went back to breathing normally again. How is it that moments like these feel ike an eternity and a millisecond all at once?  The grizzly encounter was just one of the surprises I got in my week-long Holiday on Horseback in Banff’s Rocky Mountains.  I usually go to Hawaii or to Europe for vacation. But this time I craved for a trip out of the ordinary.  I wanted a challenge, an adventure.  For better and for worse I got exactly what I hoped for.
Day 1 – Arriving in Banff in the early morning, I’m feeling relaxed and a bit smug about my vacation choice. I had only to make the short drive from my hometown of Calgary to Banff to get here. No long airplane rides, no customs agents, no hassle. I envisioned how I’d look on horseback… hair streaming behind me as I rode effortlessly through the forest. A beam of sunlight would break through the dense trees and shine on me, illuminating my hidden but undoubtedly natural riding ability. Did it matter that the total sum of my previous riding experience amounted to little more than merry-go-round horses at the fair?
Certainly not!  I’d look like Elizabeth Taylor in the movie National Velvet or even Liv Tyler in Lord of the Rings, I thought. 

Then it started to rain. The group of tourists I’m to travel with for the next six days is a motley crew of outdoor enthusiasts and experienced horseback riders from all corners of the globe. It’s quickly established that I’m the least experienced of the bunch. Standing there in my two-sizes-too-big, rented cowboy slicker and starched straw cowboy hat rain drizzling off the brim and down the front of my coat, I feel a lot less like Liv Tyler and a lot more like the Billy Crystal character from the City Slickers movie. I reassure myself that I can be just as outdoorsy and tough as the next person, no matter that this is the only time I’ve actually set foot in the woods in… oh, that doesn’t matter.  It’s raining full blast now.

A grizzled, tough cowboy type who I am sure will spit chewing tobacco onto the ground any second (he didn’t) introduces himself as our guide, Barry Ferguson. He was born and lived all his life in Banff and its surrounding mountains. This area is literally his backyard and none of us doubt his ability or authority here. In the corral we’re assigned our mounts for the week. A stream of gorgeous horses is presented to the waiting tourists and my adrenaline surges. These are beautiful creatures, well maintained.  Visions of National Velvet flash through my mind again as I wait for my horse. Out came “Shea”, the mule. She was to be my mount for the week. A mule? In a split second I revert back to being Billy Crystal again.

The days’ first ride culminates at Stoney Creek Camp where we get a choice of pre-set canvas tents to bunk in.  With wooden pallet floors, the tents are scattered throughout the camp and are spacious enough to fit two people plus a lot of gear. I’m solo on this trip so I get my own tent along with the responsibility of unpacking and organizing the gear. Bedrolls and other gear are brought in separately from the tour group. They’re waiting in a pile as we arrive.  After a full day’s ride I was less than graceful lugging my bedroll, sleeping bag and rucksack over to my tent.Ughh… where were the strong, young cowboys to do the heavy lifting?

Along with being experienced horseback riders everyone else in my group was also an experienced camper and fully capable of handling their gear. They finish setting their camps long before I do but I get several compassionate looks and words of encouragement and I stubbornly persist with the task. Eventually I finish and join the others at the campfire. It’s easy to take for granted all the lights the city offers at night. In the mountains though, dark is really dark and this is potently realized when trekking alone by flashlight to the campfire, or to the outhouse at midnight. Note to self: don’t drink so much hot chocolate before going to bed again.

Day 2 – I have abandoned my fantasy of effortlessly galloping my mount through the dense forest . Did I really think that I could do that? Instead I focus on learning the skills necessary not to fall off my mount and to just possibly ride without bouncing like a rodeo clown.
The day two ride is perilous but gorgeous. Barry takes us through a meandering mountain trail. At times, the brush is so thick I’m grateful for the over-starched hat that protects my eyes as I duck my head.  At other times we’re on high mountain slopes overlooking views that are surreal in their beauty. This area is so deep in the Rocky Mountain backcountry that the views can only been had by trekking on horseback.  The isolation is evident as we continue for an entire day, never seeing other people at all.
Suddenly, we sight an entire herd of Elk calmly making their way through a clearing. They’re magnificent and only mildly interested in us. We’re further rewarded by seeing the herd’s babies rush enthusiastically after their mothers.

Day 3 – I’ve made friends with Shea the mule.  I was dubious at first, never having ridden a mule before, but I quickly learn that mules are not only very steady on their feet, making the steepest slopes feel smooth, but they can also be more affectionate than your average horse. Shea enjoys a snuggly ear scratch at rest breaks. This helps us bond. Barry is a “mule whisperer”, renowned in the industry. He takes time during our trip to show me a few skills.  So far, I’ve learned how to properly rein-in, stop and slow down and even go backwards. This may seem a small accomplishment to a more experienced rider, but for me it was a stark jolt of reality. Riding, whether it’s a mule or horse, takes skill and concentration. It’s a challenge both physically and mentally as the rider must firmly, but kindly exert himself as the master of the animal. This is no easy feat since the animal has the advantage of instinctively knowing just how experienced its rider is. I am rejuvenated with a new sense of confidence.
I may not look like Liv Tyler when I ride, but I could do this!

Today we ride to Flint’s Park Camp, our second camp on the trip.  The terrain was very challenging with steep trails overlooking 7,000-foot drop offs. The other tourists ooohed and aaawed, appropriately impressed with views of the vast Canadian wilderness. I was impressed too, but admit to squinting my eyes closed on the steeper parts of the trail. Barry tells me closing my eyes while on horseback is a stupid thing to do. His point is quickly learned as I get whacked on the head from a nearby spruce branch I didn’t watch for.

At Flint’s Camp we unload our gear and choose tents again. This time setting camp goes more smoothly than before and for once I am not the last to finish. I make it to the kitchen tent in plenty of time to visit with the others before the huge meal is served.  At each camp there is a large kitchen tent equipped with tables. Meals are prepared by the camp cook and are hearty fare, fit for the ravenous hunger one gets in the fresh mountain air.
We have a campfire in the evening where the American tourists take pleasure in teaching others how to make and devour smoores deserts.  The night has taken an especially chilly air. The days are warm enough for just a light shirt on, and though its summertime the nights here can be surprisingly cool.

Day 4 – Frost is on the ground this morning! Last night’s chill turned into a Canadian freeze as temperatures dipped to – 8C overnight.  The other tourists are stunned, most having never experienced these temperatures before. I, however, am triumphant. Not only am I absolutely fine but I made it through a cold night in perfect stride. I came prepared for colder weather. My thick sleeping bag was reinforced with a fleece blanket inside. Plus I slept in a heavy tracksuit. The tour company informs guests far in advance to pack prepared for cool nights. We were even given a precise list of what to bring. Some people thought Canadian weather is exaggerated though. Those people had a cold night. Now it may sound like I’m gloating a bit, but that’s only because I am.  Finally, I knew something more than the other horse-experienced tourists. Finally, I was the expert on something. I’m not sure how anyone can be an expert on something as completely random as overnight frost, but it was a start!

Our ride that day was rewarded by more incredible wildlife spottings. Deer, Big Horned Sheep and dozens of mountain goats graced our day. I have actually become skilled enough on the mule to manage taking photos while remaining mounted. Plus we traversed a steep ridge walk in our pursuit of wildlife viewings, and I didn’t need help once.  I am actually becoming an outdoorsy-type and a decent rider to boot! 

Day 5 –  Spectacular ride today. The winding trails lead us up high and open onto the secluded Rainbow Lake. This is a real treat and total surprise as no one expected to lunch gathered around at a glass-smooth lake. The trees surrounding this sight are hundreds of years old and provide picturesque backdrop to the valley. That evening we ride into Mystic, our final camp. I jump down from Shea and grab my waiting gear. It takes me only about 10 minutes to get my stuff unpacked and stored. I don’t bother with the careful separation of dusty to cleaner stuff like before, having realized that we tough outdoorsy-types care little for such trivialities.  I am jubilant
in my accomplishment and make my way to the dinner tent.

Day 6 – I haven’t showered in six days. At one time that fact would make me choke, but today I haven’t a care at all.  I swing easily onto my saddle and enjoy a serene forest ride back to Banff. Our tour group jokes endlessly on the trail as we reminisce over our previous week. I’ve actually learned to ride and to do it reasonably well. What’s more, I had the adventure I was looking for and even saw a wild grizzly bear.
It’s a pleasant nine-mile ride from Mystic Valley to the awaiting mini-bus at Mount Norquay Corral.  As we approach the tree line a beam of sunlight breaks through shining right on me and the mule and for a split second, I swear I looked just like Liv Tyler.

Holiday on Horseback is booked through Warner Guiding and Outfitting in Banff, Alberta. Trips range from hour-long local rides to a week in the backcountry in either tents or custom lodges. Prices range from about $50 - $1200, depending on the trip.

Contact: Warner Guiding and Outfitting
Box 2280 Banff, Alberta, Canada T1L 1C1
Phone: 1-800-661-8352
Email: warner@horseback.com
Website: www.horseback.com/

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