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Hoof Health
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Hoof Health

By Ann Pruitt · Health

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Hoof Health, Horse Hoof Care Hoof Conformation for Horse Owners

Monique Craig teaches hoof health

Monique Craig, EponaShoe

Although I am not keen on trimming and shoeing formulas, I believe that there are some important guidelines and landmarks that can be helpful in the assessment of hoof conformation and in defining an approach to the trim and choice of shoes. I believe the trim is of first importance in maintaining hoof health and function. The proper choice of shoes and shoe placement come second.

Let us start with a very simplified tour of hoof anatomy (see figure 1). It is obvious that the whole hoof is designed to facilitate shock absorption. The frog needs to have some contact to the ground to allow proper blood flood within the hoof. The placement of the pedal bone (also called “P3”) within the hoof capsule, its relationship to the canon bone and to the ground are all important aspects in evaluating a hoof. The digital cushion, which lies in the back portion of the foot (behind the blue line in figure 1B), plays an important role in the shock absorption mechanism of the hoof. The lateral cartilages (not shown) surround the digital cushion and are involved in shock absorption and blood flow within the hoof. It is beyond the scope of this article to consider more fully anatomy and hoof mechanics.

The radiograph of figure 2A shows a hoof whose pedal bone is at a negative angle relative to the ground, which is not a good situation. Further, this pedal bone is too far “in front” of the bony column, that is, it should be more nearly underneath the cannon bone. These problems are related to the fact that this hoof has a low “arch”. The valleys to either side of the frog are called “commissures of the frog” (figure 1B) and in some feet these are shallower than others. Shallow commissures translate to low arches. In some cases, a hoof may lose arch height as it ages, the weight slowly crushing the arches. The degree to which this occurs depends on many factors such as the quality of the digital cushion, the support afforded to the frog by the environment, etc.

Hoof terminology

Figure 1: Some anatomical terminology. In image ‘A’ we have superimposed the radiograph within a photograph, so the relationship between the bones and the hoof can be seen.

The radiograph of figure 2B shows a hoof with a higher arch and a correspondingly higher angle to the pedal bone. Also, the pedal bone appears to be more ‘under’ the bony column. I believe that an acceptable range for the pedal bone angle is from 1.5 degrees up to 6.0 degrees. This angle, labeled in figure 2 as the “P3 Bottom Angle” is also sometimes known as the “P3 Palmar Angle”. As you might imagine from this brief discussion of the commissures and the arches, this angle can vary substantially from horse to horse, and hoping to achieve one particular angle of P3 for all horses is not realistic. More important than this angle is the placement of the pedal bone ‘under’ the bony column.

p3 and the hoof

Figure 2: Relating the angle of P3 to the height of the arch and the horse’s stance.

It is important to realize that the hoof is a highly adaptable structure. Hoof anatomy and its function (mechanics) can be altered not only by the trimming, but also by a change in moisture content, local variations of the ground (soil mechanics), type of training, developmental problems, gait compensation and aging, among other things.

I also would strongly recommend that horse owners demand yearly radiographs for preventative reasons as well as for record keeping. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. For instance, radiographs are very helpful to define the sole depth, position of the pedal bone within the hoof capsule, and joint angulations. Owners should ask their veterinarian to use the Metron measurement system to measure all the important angles and other measures of the hoof and bones. Metron generates a report, and it’s a god way to set a baseline of your horse’s conformation ( see www.eponatech.com ).

Now let’s examine some of the outer landmarks I use to assess a particular situation. I start to assess the stance of the horse. How are the hooves placed in relationship to the cannon bone?

showing horse stance and heel angle
Figure 3: Two extreme cases: the foot can be ‘under’ the leg or not. Fig 3A shows not only a poor stance but bad heel angle (27.7 deg.).
In an ideal situation the hoof should be under the ‘bony column’. In a lateral view, it means that the hoof should be close to the cannon bone. In a frontal view it means that the hoof should be in visual alignment with the cannon bone.

In an ideal situation the hoof should be under the ‘bony column’. In a lateral view, it means that the hoof should be close to the cannon bone. In a frontal view it means that the hoof should be in visual alignment with the cannon bone.

In figure 3B, you will notice that the hoof is under the cannon bone. Such a stance is good, perhaps a bit to the upright side of ‘ideal’. Figure 3A depicts an extremely bad stance – the foot is far out in front of the cannon bone. Note that these issues of hoof/leg conformation do not necessarily relate directly to soundness, but I believe that in the long run, poor conformation will eventually lead to lameness in most horses.

good horse stance and bad
Figure 4: Stance from the frontal view. A ‘poor’ and a ‘good’ case.

In figure 4 we compare a good frontal alignment and a poor one. The images in figures 3 and 4 represent front hooves, in general the same comments apply to the hind hooves.

Next, I assess the distance between the heels and bulbs, and the heel angle. I like to see that the heels provide support to the bulbs. The further away the heels are from the bulbs, the less structural support to the hoof. This lack of support translates in general in hoof capsule deformities.

The hoof in figure 5A shows that the bulbs have collapsed. This horse is almost walking on its bulbs. Internally, this horse has also lost its arch support, meaning that the pedal bone is no longer supported well by the arch. This is one of the reasons why the pedal bone has a negative angle (figure 2A). Concerning the distance measures in figure 5, I am not looking for an exact number but I am trying to assess a reasonable range for support. A range of 0.6” to 1.1” is a reasonably good range for a normal sized foot, so the foot in figure 5A is outside this good zone.

hoof conformation detail
Figure 5: Details of heel conformation.

Figure 5B shows a hoof with nice support and adequate heel angle (about 45 degrees). Figure 5A shows a hoof with poor support and poor heel angle (about 21 degrees). Note the heel angles are not shown on the pictures above.

I consider a range between 40 degrees and 48 degrees for the heel angle to be acceptable. I am also looking for the difference between the hoof angle and the heel angle to be from 5 to 10 degrees. A large numerical difference between the heel angle and the hoof angle would also indicate hoof capsule deformities such as in figure 3A and 5A.

Finally, I look at the sole (figure 6). I look at the distance from the heel point to the bulbs. I want to see that this distance is ‘small’. I also assess the shape of the sole. The circumference of the sole should be wider than the one of the coronary band. On the average the sole should be wider than the coronary band by 20 to 30 percent depending on the seasons. In wet weather hooves tend to splay a bit.

hoof under run

Figure 6: Comparing the ‘Heel Under-run’. In figure 6A, the heel to bulb distance is too large, the frog is stretched and thin. This is a typical for low and contracted heels. Figure 6B shows a nicely shaped hoof. Remember, we are talking about the front hooves here. The hind hooves are a bit more oblong in shape but the same comments apply as far as the heel bulb distance goes.

Only after I have fully assessed the hooves of a horse, I will decide on what to do with that particular horse. I do not try to make hooves match in conformation. My goal is to bring or maintain the hoof towards a ‘further back’ position. In healthy and ‘normal’ hooves this is obtained by lowering the heels to the level of the frog. That is, I want the walls at the heels and the frog to both share the load. In my opinion it is neither natural nor healthy to focus the weight bearing on any one structure – walls, sole, or frog. Rather, all three of these components should share in supporting the weight. I designed the Eponashoe ( www.eponashoe.com ) to make it easy and practical for farriers to accomplish this load sharing. I do not like long toes but the toe length needed for a particular horse is highly individual.

In ‘normal’ hooves, a large portion of the hoof (perhaps two thirds) lays behind the apex of the frog. Again, there are plenty of sound horses with good hooves that do not fit this formula. Factors influencing the shape and length of the frog are things such as soil mechanics, hoof quality, weather conditions, and dynamic stresses placed on the hoof. This will be addressed in a future article. When I do not know a horse, I try to have recent radiographs handy, as they give a great deal of information about the hoof. Without radiographs, we must rely on external landmarks and structures, and one must be careful --- these sometimes have a tendency to deceive the eye. Monique Craig is a hoof researcher, farrier, consultant to farriers, rider, trainer, and founder of EponaTech ( www.EponaTech.com ) and EponaShoe ( www.EponaShoe.com ).

Contact: John or Monique Craig P.O. Box 361 Creston, California 93432 Phone: 1-866-376-6283 or 805-239-3505 Email: info@eponashoe.com Website: www.EponaShoe.com

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Key Article Takeaways
  • Let us start with a very simplified tour of hoof anatomy (see figure 1).
  • The radiograph of figure 2A shows a hoof whose pedal bone is at a negative angle relative to the ground, which is not a good situation.
  • The valleys to either side of the frog are called “commissures of the frog” (figure 1B) and in some feet these are shallower than others.
  • The radiograph of figure 2B shows a hoof with a higher arch and a correspondingly higher angle to the pedal bone.
  • I believe that an acceptable range for the pedal bone angle is from 1.5 degrees up to 6.0 degrees.
Questions readers commonly ask:
How do I tell if my horse's hoof conformation is good?

Per Monique Craig: assess the stance first. From the side, the hoof should sit close to the cannon bone, not far out in front of it. From the front, the hoof should be in visual alignment with the cannon bone. A foot far in front of the bony column is a classic poor stance and usually pairs with a bad heel angle.

Next look at the heels and bulbs. Heels should provide support to the bulbs — the further apart they are, the less structural support the hoof has, which translates into hoof capsule deformities. A range of 0.6" to 1.1" between heel and bulb is reasonable for a normal-sized foot. Heel angle should fall between 40° and 48°, with the hoof angle 5-10° steeper than the heel angle. Finally, the sole's circumference should be 20-30% wider than the coronary band, depending on season (hooves splay a bit in wet weather). These are guidelines, not formulas — sound horses with good hooves don't always fit any single template.

What should I do to maintain healthy hooves long-term?

Per Monique Craig: the trim is of first importance; shoe choice and shoe placement come second. The trim's job is to bring or maintain the hoof toward a "further back" position — in healthy normal hooves, that means lowering the heels to the level of the frog so walls and frog share the load. The principle she emphasizes: walls, sole, and frog should all share in supporting the weight. It's neither natural nor healthy to focus weight-bearing on any single structure.

Toe length matters too — long toes work against proper breakover — but the right length is highly individual. Per the article, in normal hooves, roughly two-thirds of the hoof lies behind the apex of the frog; even that's a guideline rather than a rule. The hoof is highly adaptable: trimming, moisture content, soil mechanics, training, and aging all alter its function. The practical takeaway: find a farrier who trims to the individual horse, not to a fixed formula, and have your vet keep a documented baseline so you can spot changes over time.

How often should I have radiographs done on my horse's feet?

Per Monique Craig: yearly radiographs for preventative purposes and record-keeping. Her phrase: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Radiographs give your farrier and vet information that external landmarks alone can miss — sole depth, the pedal bone's position within the hoof capsule, and joint angulations. Without them, you're relying on outer landmarks that, in her words, "sometimes have a tendency to deceive the eye."

Beyond just having films, ask your vet to use a standardized measurement system (the article mentions Metron) so the angles, sole depth, and bone positions get measured consistently year over year. That generates a documented baseline of your horse's conformation, which means future radiographs can be compared apples-to-apples and changes — pedal-bone rotation, sinking, capsule deformities — get caught early instead of after they've already affected soundness. Confirm the imaging protocol and frequency with your vet based on your horse's age, work, and any existing concerns.

What's the right pedal bone angle, and does it matter for shoe choice?

Per Monique Craig: a reasonable range for the pedal-bone angle (the P3 Bottom Angle, sometimes called the P3 Palmar Angle) is 1.5° to 6.0°. But the variation horse-to-horse is substantial, and chasing a single "correct" angle for every horse isn't realistic. Where the pedal bone sits under the bony column matters more than the absolute angle — a bone that's too far forward of the cannon bone tends to indicate low arches and underrun heels, regardless of its raw angle.

For shoe choice, the load-sharing principle is what matters. Walls, sole, and frog should all share weight-bearing — products like The SoftRider Next Generation Horse Shoe (a current InfoHorse advertiser) are designed in that flexible-shoe family that allows load-sharing rather than concentrating weight on the wall alone. Specific shoe and trim decisions are a farrier conversation tied to your horse's specific radiographs and stance — not a one-size-fits-all answer. The article's framing: assess the individual horse first, then decide on the shoe, not the other way around.

Will poor hoof conformation eventually cause lameness?

Per Monique Craig: poor conformation will eventually lead to lameness in most horses, even though the hoof/leg conformation issues don't necessarily relate directly to current soundness. A horse with a bad stance or collapsed bulbs may be working today, but the structural problems compound over the years. As the article notes, the digital cushion, lateral cartilages, and overall arch integrity all participate in shock absorption — when one component is compromised, the others get overloaded, and that pattern is what eventually surfaces as lameness.

Daily hoof care is part of the prevention picture. Healthy, well-maintained horn supports the structural work that good conformation enables. Products like Hoof-Alive (a current InfoHorse advertiser) target the brittle, cracked horn quality that creates compounding problems on top of conformation issues. The takeaway from Craig's framing: don't treat hoof conformation as a fixed cosmetic trait — it's a long-term soundness investment, and the right trim, shoe choice, and daily care give a horse with imperfect conformation a much better outcome than benign neglect would.

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